+1

connection time out

fernman48 13 years ago updated 11 years ago 14
when you say "both devices need to be running transfer app" could you explain how pc runs this app? when i connect to web site all i get is this message.
The connection has timed out

The server at 169.254.193.124 is taking too long to respond.

The site could be temporarily unavailable or too busy. Try again in a few
moments.
If you are unable to load any pages, check your computer's network
connection.
If your computer or network is protected by a firewall or proxy, make sure
that Firefox is permitted to access the Web.

I have reset wifi, restarted everything same message, any help.
Another Problem with not being able to connect between your internal devices is having "Filter Internet NAT Redirection" checked ON ... in your routers settings.

I tried this before posting, and when it was NOT check boxed, I was able to connect IP to IP dialing between my Phone Devices, but when I checked the BOX for it, I could not dial one Phone device IP to IP to another.

It didn't give any indication of a problem, or any tone telling me something wasn't connecting, it just "Sat there" not ringing the other VoIP phone.

So, I'm assuming the same thing may happen when trying to connect to your computer from the iDevice, or iDevice to your computer, or maybe even iDevice to iDevice.

This is part of the built-in FIREWALL of many Routers, and most of the time this selection is NOT checked, allowing connection between Internal devices.

I noticed, on the Apps Review site, someone said there wasn't any "HELP" regarding Firewall settings for the router. I hope this helps some people with a router similar to the settings shown here.

A software Firewall is something different, however, and you will have to check your software firewall for "Privacy" settings, or other settings dealing with Internal connections between devices, for the software being used.
There are too many different companies to give all types of settings here.

Give THIS App companies TECH a chance to help you before you dismiss the App as "Rubbish". ... IT DOES WORK for mostly ALL of US, and they're not just giving you "Script" answers. It may seem like that only because it's really the same issues being asked about, and the answers are really the same, or similar, as well!

Hello,

Thanks for contacting us. I'm sorry you are having issues with the app.

From the address that you posted it looks like you may be using a public or corporate wifi network. Please note that some public wifi networks like at hotels, corporations or coffee shops are configured to block communication between devices for security reasons which leads into the problem that you are having.

If you are using a home wifi network you could try resetting your wifi router to make sure that all connections get refreshed. After you reset the wifi router you need to join the network again on your device and computer and try the transfer process again.

Please make sure that you are using the address provided inside of our app under the 'PC' tab, the address on the help pages is an example only.

To transfer from device to computer (or vice versa) you only need the app installed on your device, you don't need to install anything on your computer. When you want to transfer from device to device (like iPhone to iPad) then the app needs to be installed on both devices.

I hope this helps. Please let me know if you continue having problems, if you do please tell me what type of wifi network you are using so we can find other options. I will be very happy to help.

Kind regards,

Enrique
Photo Transfer App
http://www.phototransferapp.com
No luck. I shut down laptop, phone and wifi. Restarted in this order wifi, phone laptop. Same message. The wifi is my private home system. Phone is connecting to internet. There doesn’t seem to be a way to let Firefox continue to search beyond an internal time limit. Here is something, my phone keeps asking for permission to connect to my wifi, it does not except encrypted key only password for router, does this make a diff.

Tell me about http://169.254.80.19:8080, should this match up with ip address of pc which is 192.168.1.100? any help would be appreciated.

Bob Dixon/fernman48
Hi Bob,

I'm sorry you are still having problems with the app. So, I think what is happening is that your iPhone is actually not connected to your wifi network. The address 169.254.80.19 definitely looks like is a problem given that you have a 192.168 address on your computer.

Basically, when you connect a device to a network each device gets a unique address on the network (the IP address). Normally most home wifi routers give an address in this form: 192.168.1.X where X starts at 100 and continues up as more devices get connected to the network. If your iPhone was actually connected to the wifi network then our app should show you and address like: 192.168.1.101 for example.

So, what we need to find out is why your iPhone is not connecting to your wifi router correctly. Go to the 'Settings' app on your iPhone and then to the Wifi settings and try to join your wifi network again. Enter the password of the wifi router and then wait until the little wifi icon appears on the top left corner of the screen (next to the carrier's name).

If the little wifi icon appears but you still get the bad address on your iPhone then please send me the brand and model of your wifi router to research if there is anything special that needs to be changed on its configuration.

I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.

Best regards,

Enrique
Photo Transfer App
+1
Hi again,

From the address shown (http://169.254.80.19:8080) in this users post, it looks like the device is connecting to a "limited connectivity" source.

This happens to me when DHCP doesn't find the address of my Ethernet connection due to firewall limitations ... But in this case his iDevice is not finding the router and try's the next available address http://169.254.80.19:8080

I'm not sure if this user is trying to send to another iDevice, or his PC, but even the PC can be forced to use a Static connection. If it's a PC problem, a firewall program may not be allowing connection to the DHCP on the router, and can happen when "privacy" is set too high in the firewall.

If the iDevice isn't seeing the router, ... May I suggest he try's to create a "static" network connection, using the iDevice's manual Network settings in the Wi-Fi Network section.

By going to the iDevice's "Settings / Wi-Fi" area, and touch the little blue > in the section that is check marked (indicating the active connection) ... This should open the Wi-Fi Network connection info and he can change the DHCP to a STATIC connected IP address. It should be able to "force" the device to connect to the proper address set by the router.... Or other source iDevice.

When you tap the blue > arrow to open the active connection shown in the WiFi Network section, you should see 3 buttons, under the "IP Address" title, marked as ... DHCP ... BootP ... Static
Tap the Static button.

Then tap the "IP Address" line to manually enter the correct one.
You may also need to manually enter the others too ...
Subnet Mask , Router , and DNS addresses, for the connection to see your intranet, or other iDevice .

I tried to attach the image snapshots I made on my iPad2 but can't because I'm typing this using the iPad and it ghosts-out attachment buttons ... :-( ... Apple and their limitations for the iPad2 browser ... Rats!

I'll log on here again with my WindowsXP OS and see if I can attach the two pictures, if they're still needed.

If it's the PC not connecting properly, and no Firewall program is being used, I'll create the photos for STATIC settings for Windows OS connections.

Oh well... Pictures would have been easier to explain... But, for now, text is it.

:-) I hope it's not too confusing.
I just had another thought.

It's also possible the router is being blocked to filter out another wireless device... And must be allowed to either manually see the MAC number of the iDevice or allow automatic connections of more wireless devices.

This depends on if it's even set to allow wireless devices at all ... :-)

If wireless connectivity is OFF, and he doesn't know how to adjust the router, it's best, as you suggested earlier, to get the router model number to check the settings for him.

It has to be something simple, such as these few suggestions, because the App works, and that's that. If the App was the problem, it wouldn't work for anyone.

:-)

Here's what it looks like in the Routers settings screen, Yours could look similar.

Wireless MAC Filter page, usually in the Wireless TAB of the Router.



And the LIST of MAC address you allow in, if you have it set to keep all out except the listed ones.

MAC Address Filter List

Here I am again, :-) on my Windows XP OS, and can upload the two picture files for the settings in the Wi-Fi Networks area of the iPad, or other iDevice.

ALSO, - Another way to not have this problem, for anyone else, is to set your router to start the DHCP server automatic address' at a higher number, and make the devices you always use, a static address, with the lower numbers.

For example, instead of the starting address being the default of 2 (because the router is #1), you could count how many devices you want to be static connections, then start the DHCP one higher.

I have my ATA (phone interface), and my iPad2 as static addresses, so they always connect to the same address even when a power failure happens, or if all the devices are not connected at the same time, So I have the DHCP server starting at address port 4 (192.168.xxx.4) the xxx is whatever # you want from 001 without the zeros, up to 254.

Now, my ATA and iPad2 always have the same IP address' and the other devices are assigned from the DHCP, even when power fails, or I have to reset for some reason, all comes back to the static settings for the two devices always needing to be the same each time.

Here's the attached pictures of where to set the iDevice Static address, I hope it uploads correctly ---
----------------------------------
EDITED- June-3rd-2011
I had to block out my Local IP# and DSN#, plus router name -
Seems some people were trying to hack their way into it, when I checked my LOGS ... some people just take advantage of being nice!
---------------------------------------------------------


By the way, YOUR DNS address setting may, or should, be different, unless you have the same Internet provider as I do, so check your router "status" section to see the ones you use, along with the Subnet Mask and any other address needed.
Hi Bob, YES, to the quote you have made earlier ...

"...There doesn’t seem to be a way to let Firefox continue to search beyond an internal time limit. Here is something, my phone keeps asking for permission to connect to my wifi, it does not except encrypted key only password for router, does this make a diff. ..."

Firefox not seeing the internet or intranet says it's not seeing the router DNS to know it's connected to the internet or even the intranet PLUS the phone not connecting to WiFi also says you don't have your router set correctly.

It's best to get your router model number and have Enrique guide you thru the settings, and also use some of the techniques I mentioned above, to have you setup so you don't have this problem any longer.

Good Luck! .... I'm sure you'll be up and transfering soon.
Here's a picture of what the my router's DHCP setup looks like.

You'll notice the number of DHCP users, and the Starting DHCP address look like nothing else will be allowed, but it's actually 3 more including the Starting DHCP address already set... so in this case it will go to port 7 (192.168.xxx.4 +3 more, including port 4) before it won't allow any more into my routers wireless connection, automatically being addressed.

(Example of DHCP address Limiting, for Lower addresses to be set as static.)

One extra point, make sure the App screen remains showing on the iDevice while you're trying to connect with the browser. If you switch to another screen before the transfer starts the browser will not see the connection address showing in the App screen.
Getting this app to work should not be this difficult. I'm with everybody else that is unhappy, I want my money back.
Dear Heather,

We really sorry you haven't been able to get the app working on your device. Please email us some details of the type of wifi network you are using, the address that the app is giving you and the direction of transfer that you are attempting so we can help you accordingly. We will try to respond as soon as possible and we will be more than happy to help you find a solution or compensate you. You can email us at: support [at] phototransferapp [dot] com

Kind rgards,

Enrique
Photo Transfer App
Hi everyone,

I've been trying to solve this myself and played around with all settings mentioned here. I played around all day to my wits end trying to figure it out.

Then I was tooling around my router and found a setting called Access Point Isolation that was enabled. The word "isolation" caught my attention...could it be that the router was isolating its clients from each other?

I disabled this setting, and voila! Everything started working. I didn't have to mess with colons, semicolons, Windows or Apple receive mode, etc. It just started working.

Turns out many routers do this by default to prevent wifi clients "eavesdropping" on each others connections. It most important for public wifi access points where the people connecting don't know each other.

If you still have this app installed but gave up on it, please try digging in your router settings to see if isolation can be disabled. It might just be the solution to all your headaches.